Welcome to Enchanting Journeys

Middle East is a grand epic, a cradle of Civilisations & a beautiful, complicated land that is home to some of the Planet's most hospitable people. It is a geo-political region encompassing the Arabian Peninsula, the Levant, Turkey, Egypt, Iran & Iraq. Here, history is not something you read about in books. It is a story written on the stones that litter the region, from the flagstones of old Roman roads to the building blocks & timeless Pyramids of ancient Egypt & the delicately carved Tombs & Temples from rose-red City of Petra to Persepolis. This is where humankind first built cities & learned to write & it was from here that Judaism, Christianity & Islam all arose.

From the soaring iconic Skyscrapers of Dubai to the ancient ruins of Palmyra in Syria, the region is a treasure trove of experiences waiting to be explored As you step into this fascinating region of ancient Wonders & vibrant Cultures, let the words of ancient intrepid Travelers, Poets & Dreamers guide you through an inspirational journey that transcends borders & speaks to the wanderlust in the heart of modern Marco Polos or Ibn Battutas & so many others who travelled on ‘land’ (we are not referring to the Seafaring Explorers). Wherever you find yourself, the past is always the ‘present’ because here, perhaps more than anywhere else on earth, history is the heart & soul of the land.

And Turkey is a land of vast open spaces, massive Mountain ranges, fertile Valleys & rugged Coastline with unfrequented scenic Beaches, fast - growing Cities & sleepy Villages with bustling neon-lit seaside Resorts. You will find a richly historical land with ancient wonders & some of the best Cuisine you will ever.

Arrive in iconic Istanbul, the largest Turkish City & a major Seaport that connects the East with the West.

After you exit in the Arrival Hall at Terminal? -  Istanbul Kemal Ataturk International Airport, subsequent to Immigration & Customs, you will be welcomed by The Journeys representative (holding a placard with your Name) who will ensure your comfort & transfer you to the Hotel. He / she will provide assistance during Check-in & also discuss the program for the next few days & provide you with some useful tips for exploring the area on your own

If, for any reason you are unable to make contact with our representative within 30 minutes after you exit in the Arrivals Hall, please call the local Emergency telephone # listed on your Contact List. Please follow the advice given by our 24 / 7 Duty Officer.  Please do not exit the Airport & make your own way to the hotel.

Reach the Hotel & Check-in & relax.

*Check-in time is 02.00 pm. For earlier arrivals in the morning, we will request the Hotel for a “complimentary” early Check-in but cannot be guaranteed unless reserved & paid for ‘immediate occupancy’.

Balance of the day is at leisure or perhaps try one of the many Options available (we will be happy to offer suggestions & make arrangements). 

Living History | Art & Architecture | Culinary Heritage

The city of Istanbul has been known by a number of different names associated with different phases of its checkered history & respective languages. The most notable documented names besides the current Turkish name are Byzantium, Constantinople & Stamboul.

Istanbul’s strategic location has attracted many marauding armies over the centuries. The Greeks, Romans & Venetians took turns ruling before the Ottomans stormed into town & decided to stay - physical reminders of their various tenures are found across the City. The fact that the City straddles 2 Continents wasn't its only drawcard - it was the final stage on the legendary Silk Road linking Asia with Europe & many Merchants who came here, liked it so much that they, too, decided to stay. In so doing, they gave the City a cultural diversity that it retains to this day.

Capital of 3 Empires, Istanbul is an old city, you can see the remains of many ancient Civilizations & their culture in harmony with Turkish culture. The Old versus the New, the Traditional versus the Modern is a conflict a Visitor often observes. The City is full of contrasts & colorful views. Where the blowing winds from the 7 peaks of Anatolian Olympos on Asia & Europe merge into each other, where Amazon's cooled their bodies in the waves that break apart from the Black Sea & roll mightily against the shore, where love is symbolized in the Tower of Leandros, where stand the rocks of Symplegad that brought nightmares to the Argonauts. Where romance & traffic jam go hand in hand. Lively & exciting, a world Metropolis - that is Istanbul.

The conquering armies of ancient times tended to ransack the City rather than endow it with artistic treasures, but all that changed with the Byzantines, who adorned their Churches & Palaces with mosaics & frescoes. Miraculously, many of these remain. Their successors, the Ottomans, were quick to launch an ambitious building program & the magnificently decorated imperial Mosques that resulted are architectural triumphs that together form one of the world's great Skylines. In recent years, local Banks & Business dynasties have reprised the Ottomans' grand ambitions & endowed an impressive array of Galleries, Museums & Festivals for all to enjoy.

Istanbul is hot. And we are not talking about the weather. The City’s over-abundance of important historic buildings & exciting cultural options, provides Visitors with more than enough to see during the day, but it is at night that the place swings into high-velocity, mega-stylish action. Locals are flocking to see & be seen at an ever-growing array of Bars, Clubs & Restaurants, bringing with them an infectious sense of joie de vivre & a discerning ability to judge these places on their standard of service, drinks, music & food as well as their position in the what’s-hot & what’s-not stakes.

These days, there are more “happening” Restaurants, Bars, Galleries & Clubs around town than there are exquisite Ottoman Mosques.

The international Fashion & Design Press has been talking up Istanbul ad nauseam, but the most significant thing about the accolade ‘World’s Hippest City’ is that İstanbullus themselves have come believe it. The creeping sense of decrepitude that had fallen like a pall over their once-all-powerful home town has vanished, replaced by a sense of energy & innovation not seen since the days of Suleyman the Magnificent.

But, what about the food?' we hear you say. The Cuisine is as diverse as its heritage & delicious to boot. Locals take their eating & drinking seriously - the Restaurants here are the best in the country. For the sociable & family-orientated Turks, getting together & eating well is a time - honoured ritual.  You can eat aromatic Asian dishes or Italian classics if you so choose, but most Visitors prefer to sample the succulent Kebabs, flavorsome Mezes & freshly caught Fish that are the City's signature dishes, washing them down with the national drink, Rakı (aniseed brandy), or a glass or 2 of locally produced Wine.

The best thing about sampling Turkey's delicious specialties - ranging from Meze on a Mediterranean Harbour to a Pension breakfast featuring products from the kitchen garden - is they take you to the heart of Turkish culture.

That is not to say that the locals are turning their backs on much-loved ancient city institutions such as the rakı-soaked Meyhane (Tavern) or tranquil Cay Bahçesi (Tea Garden), because they wouldn’t dream of doing anything so foolish. They know, after all, that such institutions are one of the reasons that their home is - & always has been - rightfully dubbed the ‘City of the World’s Desire’.

Morning, you will meet the Tour-guide in the Lobby at 09:00 am & embark on a full day sightseeing tour of Istanbul.

Sitting at the crossroads of Europe, Africa & Asia, Istanbul has always been a Trading hub & the City’s Trade legacy can be explored at over 200 Markets, some operating weekly & others year-round, where you can find great bargains, fresh produce & of course, hidden treasures.

First stop will be at the center of Constantinople’s sporting & political heart - the Hippodrome, amongst the most attractive sites in Turkey, not far away from other attractions i.e. Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Irene & the Turkish Islamic Art Museum.

The name is derived from the ancient Greek words ‘hippos’ (horse) & ‘dromos’ (course. The ancient Roman version, the Circus, was similar to the Greek Hippodrome, a Stadium for Horse & Chariot racing. 

The Byzantine Empire followed the Eastern Roman Empire that emerged after the 5^th century AD collapse of the Western Roman Empire. The Empire became influential, with a sophisticated Bureaucracy, strong Military & a rich Culture. The Byzantines faced numerous challenges throughout history, including invasions from foreign powers like the Persians, Arabs & Turks. Despite these challenges, the Byzantines held onto Constantinople for centuries, partly thanks to their impressive military & defensive capabilities.

To reflect the prestigious status & keep locals entertained, Roman Emperor Septimius Severus built the Hippodrome in 203 AD, but several other Emperors expanded & renovated it over the centuries. Such was the importance of the structure both to social society & to reflect Constantinople’s importance.

In 324 AD, the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great decided to move the Capital from Rome & chose Byzantium as the site for his new City, which sat at the crossroads of Europe & Asia in the Bosporus Strait, adding to its position as a Hub for Trade & Commerce. He renamed the City with its heavily fortified walls & defensive structures as Constantinople.  

The Hippodrome was the centre of Byzantium's life for 1000 years & of Ottoman life for another 400 years & has been the scene of countless political dramas. The structure was made more grandiose by Emperor Constantine I as he carried out major renovations on the Hippodrome which was upgraded so that its newfound beauty would suit the status of the City. After the renovation, the Hippodrome estimated to be about 450 metres long & 130 metres wide & could house more than 60,000 spectators & was also used for other public events such as Parades, imperial Ceremonies, Military triumphs, Political demonstrations, public Shaming & Executions of ‘enemies’ of the Emperor.

To further elevate the popularity & status of the new Capital, Constantine brought Artworks from places all over the world & beautified the Hippodrome. As new Emperors came into power, more & more rare and unique structures were added to the already existing ones as each Emperor wanted to cement his name & public image by adding another element of magnificence to the Hippodrome of Constantinople. Some of these additions include the Walled Obelisk, the Status of Porphyrios, the Obelisk of Thutmose III, & the Serpent Column.

The Byzantine Emperors loved nothing more than an afternoon at the Chariot races & this rectangular arena alongside Sultanahmet Park was their venue of choice. In its heyday, it was decorated by Obelisks & Statues, some of which remain in place today. Re-landscaped in more recent years, it is one of the City's most popular meeting places & promenades.

Chariot races were a popular form of entertainment during the Byzantine Empire. Races were more than entertainment & reflected political & social life. 4 Factions participated in Racing - The Teams were Blues (Veneto), Reds (Rousioi), Whites (Leukoi) & Greens (Prasiniol) with their own Team of Charioteers, Horses & supporters.  The Blues represented Aristocracy & the Emperor, while the Greens related to ordinary people. The less popular Reds & Whites often aligned with one of the 2 major Factions. Each Faction's devoted followers had deep-rooted rivalries that sometimes became violent.

There were many formats of Races but the most popular, the Quadriga, involved Chariots with 4 Horses. The fast & dangerous Races saw Charioteers driving at very high speeds around the track, navigating sharp turns, avoiding collisions with other Chariots trying to overtake rivals & be the first to cross the finish line, but accidents, even deaths, were common. These Races usually involved 7 Chariots each & the Racers were divided into 4 different Teams, each of which tried to secure the win for its Rider.

These skilled Charioteers became famous for their prowess & winning brought prestige & influence. Teams were not just the mighty Champions of the Hippodrome but they often aligned with each other & gradually grew in power until they became a sort of Political Party that dabbled in the affairs of the Rich & Poor of the Empire equally.

The Reds & Whites gradually weakened in strength & as time went on, they were absorbed by the Blues & the Greens who had separate sectarian connections. Support for a Team was akin to membership of a Political Party & a victory had important effects on Policy. Emperor Justinian I of Constantinople was a Blue. 

The competitive Races meant winning was about great pride for Factions & supporters. Occasionally, Greens & Blues joined forces against the Emperor, as was the case in 532 AD when a Race was disturbed by Protests against Emperor Justinian's high Tax regime. The Nika (so called after the protesters' cry of Nika!, or Victory!) Revolt was one of the most violent incidents in the history of Istanbul. The results were devastating. The riots intensified, despite appeals from Justinian made from the imperial Box in the Hippodrome. Though initially contemplating fleeing the city, Justinian eventually ordered his General Belisarius to attack the rioters, resulting in the slaughter by the imperial forces. Over 30,000 people lay dead in the Hippodrome & throughout Constantinople & the Capital lay in ruins. Not surprisingly, the Races were banned for some time afterwards but later despite their popularity, Chariot races declined in the 11^th century as the Empire experienced political & economic decline.

Ottoman Sultans also kept an eye on activities in the Hippodrome. It served as a medium through which the Emperor met & engaged with the people & tapped into the heartbeat of the public. During races, people would often shout out their political demands to the Emperor who was always present at such Races. If things were going badly in the Empire, a surly crowd gathering here could signal the start of a Disturbance, then a Riot, then a Revolution. In 1826, the slaughter of the corrupt Janissary Corps (Sultan's personal Bodyguards) was carried out here by the reformer Sultan Mahmut II. In 1909, there were Riots here that caused the downfall of Abdul Hamit II.

A blend of ancient Roman & Turkish history, the Arena served functions other than hosting the sports activities that it was primarily built for. The King also flaunted his wealth & riches during these Races, occasionally giving out money & gifts to people during these gatherings. It was the center of the City's social life & was used for various occasions such as the lavish ‘circumcision’ ceremony of the sons of Sultan Ahmed III.

Despite the ever-present threat of the Hippodrome being the scene of their downfall, Emperors & Sultans sought to outdo one another in beautifying it & adorned the centre with Statues from the far reaches of the Empire. Unfortunately, many priceless Carvings by ancient Masters have disappeared from their original homes here. Chief among those responsible for such thefts were the soldiers of the Fourth Crusade, who invaded Constantinople, a Christian ally city, in 1204. The soldiers tore all the Plates from the Rough-Stone Obelisk, at the Hippodrome's southern end, in the mistaken belief that they were solid gold (in fact, they were gold-covered bronze). The Crusaders also stole the famous Triumphal Quadriga (team of 4 Horses cast in bronze) & placed it atop the main door of Venice's Basilica di San Marco. The Turkish Government created Replicas which are now located at the Hippodrome.

Constantinople never recovered from this sacking & even though the Byzantine Empire survived until 1453, by that time, the Hippodrome had fallen into ruin, pillaged by the Venetians who likely took the 4 Horses now housed in San Marco. Constructions of Ibrahim Pasa Palace (now housing Turkish Islamic Art Museum) in 16^th century & Blue Mosque in 17^th century damaged the Hippodrome. Subsequently, in mid 18^th century onwards, it was abandoned.

Now, coming back to ‘present’ go back in time 500 years when the Ottoman Empire was in power & imagine a place ruled by Games & Riots. It takes a bit of imagination to appreciate the Hippodrome - once a Stadium with seating for 100,000 - since there isn't much here anymore. Notably absent are the rows of Seats that once surrounded the Track & the life-size bronze sculpture of the iconic 4 Horses that once adorned the Stadium (the Venetians looted the Statues during the Fourth Crusade).

Inspite of some of its structures have been destroyed & gone missing over time, the Hippodrome of Constantinople is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Turkey today. You can still see several monuments that once decorated the central Podium.

Hear from the Tour-guide, how the immaculately preserved pink granite Obelisk of Thutmose III in the centre, was carved in Egypt during the reign of Thutmose III (r1549-1503 BC) & erected in the Amon-Re Temple at Karnak. Theodosius the Great (r379-95) had it brought from Egypt to Constantinople & erected on the Racing Track.  On all 4 sides of the marble Podium below the Obelisk, look for the carved reliefs of Theodosius, his wife, his sons, state officials & bodyguards watching the Chariot-race action, preparing to crown a Victor or accepting the homage of prisoners, from the Kathisma (imperial Box). The top section of the Obelisk has survived more than 3000 years & it is still in astonishingly good condition, at the original place it was erected.

South of this Obelisk, is a strange Column coming up out of a hole in the ground. Initially called the Tripod of Plataea, later renamed as Yılanlı Sutun (Serpent Column), it was originally cast to commemorate a victory of the Hellenic Confederation (Greeks) over the Persians in the Battle of Plataea, in the 5^th century. It stood in front of the Temple of Apollo at Delphi (Greece) from 478 BC until Constantine the Great had it brought to his new Capital around 330 AD, to be erected in the middle of the Hippodrome of Constantinople.

The 8 metre tall Egyptian granite Column featured 3 bronze Snakes, with their Heads supporting a golden Bowl on the Tripod, to represent the 3 Greek Tribes that fought in the Battle. Though badly damaged in Byzantine times, the Heads survived until the early 18^th century. Now, only the Column has survived & is currently on display. Later, one upper jaw was discovered in a basement of Aya Sofya & is displayed in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.

The Column symbolised Constantinople & a legend spread that anyone who touched it received good luck. Another legend claims the Snakes were alive & protected Constantinople from harm. The Column has undergone several restorations over the centuries. In the 18^th century, the Heads were replaced with new ones & in the 19^th century, the Column was reinforced with an iron rod. While the original golden Tripod & bronze Heads are now lost, the Column remains an important artefact from ancient Greece.

The 4^th century BC Horses of Saint Mark, also called the Triumphal Quadriga, are 4 ancient bronze sculptures created in ancient Greece. The sculptures depict 4 Horses in full gallop, placed on high pedestal in the Hippodrome, as part of a bronze Chariot group. They were taken to Italy, in the 13^th century after the Venetians sacked Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade & were placed on the facade of St. Mark's Basilica in Venice, where they remained until the late 20^th century. These days, the Horses are kept inside the Basilica’s Museum.

The Status of Porphyrios was erected at the spine of the Hippodrome in honor of Porphyrios who was a legendary Charioteer with skill & excellence, who raced for both the Green & the Blue Teams during his lifetime in the 6^th century AD. He won many races & the locals of Constantinople adored him. Successful Porphyrios deemed as the best Charioteer of all time, retired young & lived comfortably & his legacy inspired Athletes & fans. However, he did not forget his love of Chariot racing & continued to support the sport throughout his life. Of all the 7 Statues in his honor, only the bases of 2 survived & are displayed in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.

The 105 feet high Walled Obelisk, made of red porphyry & marble, was initially built by 4^th century AD Emperor Theodosius I but later, restored & fortified by the 10^th century AD Byzantine Emperor Constantine VII. The structure resembled an ancient Egyptian Obelisk, with hieroglyphic inscriptions on its sides. The Obelisk was covered with marble slabs that encased the red porphyry structure to protect against damage from earthquakes & other natural disasters. Despite the name, the Walled Obelisk is not actually walled in but surrounded by a low railing & everyone can admire the intricate carvings & inscriptions. Today, the Walled Obelisk, Theodosius Obelisk & Serpentine Column still stand.

There is also a much more recent addition. Near the northern end of the Hippodrome, a little Gazebo with a beautiful neo-Byzantine stonework Fountain, commemorating German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II's state visit to Sultan Abdul Hamit II in 1898. The German government presented the Fountain to the Sultan & the Turks, as a token of friendship in 1901. The monograms on the Dome's interior feature Abdul Hamit's Tugra (calligraphic signature) & the first letter of Wilhelm's name, representing their political union.

The Hippodrome started declining after Ottoman Turks conquered Constantinople in 1453 & it eventually fell into disrepair. The Square was later renamed Sultan Ahmet (Sultanahmet) Square in honour of Sultan Ahmet I, who commissioned the 17^th century Blue Mosque. These days, the Square is the most visited place in the whole of Turkey, attracting millions.

No other trace of the grand Stadium still exists - at least in situ, in the Square, the present Square largely follows the ground plan & dimensions of the once great Hippodrome. Marble fragments & bits of sculptures can be found in Museums. Nowadays, this civic Park carries on the Ottoman tradition in its name only, known as the Horse Grounds.

From here, walk to the Blue Mosque.

The 17^th century Blue Mosque (actual name Sultan Ahmet Camii) set next to the Byzantine Hippodrome & across from the Hagia Sophia, stands as an iconic testament to the grandeur of the Ottoman Sultans & is one of the most magnificent structures of the Empire. The culmination of 2 centuries of both Ottoman Mosque & Byzantine Church development.

Even though Westerners have called it the Blue Mosque, because of its more than 21,000 famous blue handmade Tiles from Iznik (Nicaea) that adorn the interior walls, Turks always use Sultan Ahmet Camii.

Known for having 6 imposing Minarets (rather than the standard 4) & for its many Domes & semi-Domes, the building became came to be known as the Blue Mosque for the color of its interior. Built between 1609 & 1616 by Sultan Ahmed I (ruled 1603 -17), in what was then the center of Istanbul, its construction took place on the foundation of the Great Palace & its position opposite Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya) suggests that the Sultan intended the Mosque to rival the glory of the former Cathedral.

Sultan Ahmet I, ascended to Throne at the age of 14 as the 14^th Sultan of Ottomans. He was only 19 years old when he commissioned Architect Sedefkar Mehmet Aga to build this great Mosque & he showed his dedication to the construction by personally working as a labourer. He reigned the over the Ottoman Empire on 3 Continents, including parts of Europe, for 14 years but   he died young when he was 28 years old.

Mehmet Aga, a former student of the famous Ottoman Architect Sinan, ensured perfect proportions of its structure, with a goal was to surpass Roman Emperor Justinian's crowning achievement. Indeed, this favorable comparison was the intention of the Architect & at the behest of the Sultan, he created this masterpiece of Ottoman craftsmanship, starting in 1609 & completing it in just 8 years. Many believe he indeed succeeded in outdoing the splendor of Aya Sofya.

Mehmet Aga actually went a little too far though, when he surrounded the massive structure with 6 Minarets: this number linked the Blue Mosque with the Masjid al-Haram (Prophet’s Mosque) in Mecca - & this could not be allowed, religiously. So, Sultan Ahmet I was forced to send Mehmet down to the Holy City to build a 7^th Minaret for al-Haram & re-establish the eminence of that Mosque.

After the dark corners & stern look of the Byzantine Mosaics in Aya Sofya, this Mosque feels gloriously airy & full of light. From outside the Mosque, you can see the genius of Mehmet Aga, who didn't attempt to surpass the massive Dome of Aya Sofya across the way, but instead built a series of Domes of varying sizes to cover the huge interior space, creating an effect that is both whimsical & uplifting. Unlike the Hagia Sophia, however, the central Dome, 77 feet in diameter & 141 feet high, flanked by 4 semi-Domes surrounded by 8 cascading smaller Domes & supported by 4 large "elephant foot" Pillars, making it nearly Square in shape.

The most striking aspect are the Minarets marking the skyline of Istanbul & an impressive grand Courtyard, biggest of all of the Ottoman Mosques. Inside the Minarets, there are Stairs leading to the Balconies & originally 16 `Muezzins` made the `adhan` (call to Prayer) 5 times a day, simultaneously towards different directions. Today, with the use of current technology, a single person stands at the bottom of the Minaret & makes the same announcement which was made by 16 people, centuries ago & it remains a functioning Mosque today & can hold about 10,000 worshipers. It is open to Tourists during non-Prayer times.

Only after you enter the Mosque, do you understand the reason for its nickname. The stunning interior is covered with 20,000 shimmering blue-green ceramic İznik Tiles interspersed with 260 stained-glass luminescent Windows that allow daylight to flood in, with Calligraphy & intricate floral patterns painted on the Ceiling. Along with blue Tiles, there are also white, green & other colours. However, the dominant colour when entering, is obviously blue. The Tiles are richly decorated with floral patterns representing Earth in spring time as well as Gardens of Paradise, with Tulips, Rose, Carnation, Lily Flowers, Trees, & abstract Patterns.  Above the Tiles, the walls are painted with various Motifs, generally in a blue color.

İnterior space gives the feeling of interior area of a large Palace but it also has a mystical atmosphere.  Hand-made colourful Carpets, Chandeliers & Lamps, Desks with Qur’an Manuscripts on them, advance the magnificence of this religious place. The carved marble Minbar (pulpit) is positioned so that the Imam can be heard from anywhere in the Mosque.

The Sultan Ahmet died shortly after the Mosque was completed & he along with some of his family, is interred in the Turbe (Mausoleum) just outside the walls.

After spending an hour, marvelling at the Mosque interior & exterior, proceed to Topkapi Palace.

Topkapı Palace is the subject of more colourful stories than most of the world's Museums put together. One of the oldest & largest Palace on the Planet, it was the official & primary Residence for the Ottoman Sultans for approximately 400 years. Libidinous Sultans, ambitious Courtiers, beautiful Concubines & scheming Eunuchs lived & worked here between the 15^th & 19^th centuries when it was the Court of the Ottomans, functioning as both an Administrative & Educational Center of the vast Empire. A visit to the Palace's opulent Pavilions, jewel-filled Treasury & sprawling Harem gives a fascinating glimpse into their lives.

Mehmet the Conqueror built the first stage of the Palace shortly after conquering Constantinople (Istanbul), Capital of the Byzantine Empire, in 1453 & lived here until his death in 1481. Subsequently, about 30 Sultans lived & ruled from this rarefied environment until the 19^th century, when Sultan Abdulmecid I moved his Court to the more ostentatious European-style Dolmabahçe Palace he built on the shores of the Bosphorus. Over the centuries, Topkapi grew to include 4 Courtyards & quarters for some 5,000 full-time Residents, within its Walls.

Begin to experience the grandeur of the Palace when you enter through the Bab-us Selam (Gate of Salutation) or Bab-ı Humayun (Imperial Gate), passing by the ornately cobbled Square with its rococo-style Tulip shaped Fountain built in 1728 by Sultan Ahmet III.to reach the First Court known as the Court of the Janissaries or the Parade Court.  On your left is the Byzantine Church of Hagia Eirene, more commonly known as Aya Irini. Another structure is former Darphane-i Amire (Imperial Mint) constructed in 1727, which was named Currency Imperial Ottoman Administration.

The Middle Gate leads to the Second Court with a beautiful park-like setting, used for running the affairs of the Empire. Only the Sultan & his Mother (valide sultan) were allowed through the Gate on horseback. Everyone else, including the Grand Vizier, had to dismount & walk.

Unlike typical European Palaces, which feature one large building with outlying Gardens, Topkapı is a series of Pavilions, Kitchens, Barracks, Audience Chambers, Kiosks & Sleeping quarters built around a central enclosure.

The Kitchens on the right (east) as you enter, incorporate a dedicated Helvahane (confectionery kitchen). They hold a small portion of the Palace’ vast Collection of Chinese Celadon Porcelain, valued by the Sultans for its beauty but also because it was reputed to change colour if touched by poisoned food.

On the left (west) side of the Second Court, is the ornate Divan-ı Humayun (Imperial Council Chamber). The Council met here to discuss matters of State & the Sultan sometimes eavesdropped through the gold grille high in the wall. The room to the right showcases Clocks from the Sultan’s Collection. North of the Council Chamber is the Outer Treasury, where an impressive collection of Ottoman & European Arms & Armour is displayed.

The entrance to the Harem is beneath the Tower of Justice on the western side of the Court. The visitor route through the Harem changes when rooms are closed for restoration or stabilisation, so some of the areas mentioned here may not be open during your visit.

As popular belief would have it, the Harem was a place where the Sultan could engage in debauchery at will. In more prosaic reality, these were the imperial Family quarters & every detail of life here, was governed by Tradition, Obligation & Ceremony. The word 'harem' literally means 'forbidden' or 'private'.

The Sultans supported, sometimes, as many as 300 Concubines. Upon entering the Harem, the girls would be schooled in Islam & in Turkish culture & language, as well as the arts of Make-up, Dress, Comportment, Music, Reading, Writing, Embroidery & Dancing. They then entered a Meritocracy, first as ladies-in-waiting to the Sultan's Concubines & children, then to the Mother of the Sultan & finally, if they were particularly attractive & talented, presented to the Sultan himself. The Sultan was allowed by Islamic law to have 4 legitimate wives, who received the title of Kadın (wife). If a wife bore him a son, she was called Haseki Sultan & if she bore him a daughter, Haseki Kadın.

Ruling the Harem was Valide Sultan (Mother) who often owned large landed Estates in her own name & controlled them through black Eunuch servants. Able to give orders directly to the Grand Vizier, her influence on the Sultan, on his Wives, Concubines & on Matters of State, was often profound.

The earliest of the 300 odd Rooms in the Harem were constructed during the reign of Murat III (r 1574-95); the Harems of previous Sultans were at the now-demolished Eski Sarayı (Old Palace).

The Complex has 6 floors, but only one of these can be visited. This is approached via the Carriage Gate. Next to the Gate is the Dormitory of the Corps of the Palace Guards, a meticulously restored 2 storey structure featuring swathes of magnificent 16^th & 17^th century Iznik Tiles.

Inside the Gate, is the Dome with Cupboards, the Harem Treasury where financial records were kept. Beyond it, is the Hall with the Fountain, lined with fine 17^th century Kutahya Tiles featuring botanical Motifs & Inscriptions from the Koran & home to a marble horse-mounting block once used by the Sultans. Adjoining this is the Mosque of the Black Eunuchs, which features depictions of Mecca on its 17^th century Tiles.

Beyond this Room, is the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs, also decorated with Kutahya Tiles & behind the marble colonnade on the left are the Dormitories. In the early days, White Eunuchs were used, but Black Eunuchs sent as presents by the Ottoman Governor of Egypt, later took control. As many as 200 lived here, guarding the doors & waiting on the Women of the Harem.

At the far end of the Courtyard, is the Main Gate into the Harem, as well as a Guard Room featuring 2 gigantic gilded Mirrors. From here, the Concubines' Corridor leads left to the Courtyard of the Concubines & Sultan's Consorts. This is surrounded by Baths, a Laundry, Dormitories & private Apartments.

Across the Concubines' Corridor, is a room decorated with a tiled Chimney, followed by the Apartments of the Valide Sultan, the center of power in the Harem. From these ornate Rooms, the Mother oversaw & controlled her huge 'family'. Of particular note, is the Salon of the Valide Sultan with its lovely 19^th century Murals featuring bucolic views of İstanbul & a pretty double Hamam dating from 1585, the gilded bronze railings were a later addition.

Past the Courtyard of the Valide Sultan, is a splendid Reception Room with a large Fireplace that leads to a Vestibule covered in 17^th century Kutahya & İznik Tiles. This is where the Princes, Valide Sultan & senior Concubines waited before entering the handsome Imperial Hall for an audience with the Sultan. Built during the reign of Murat III, the Hall was redecorated in baroque style by order of Osman III (r 1754-57).

Nearby is the Privy Chamber of Murat III, one of the most sumptuous Rooms in the Palace. Dating from 1578, virtually all of its decoration is original & is thought to be the work of Sinan. The restored 3 tiered marble Fountain here, was designed to give the sound of cascading water & to make it difficult to eavesdrop on the Sultan's conversations. The gilded canopied seating areas are later 18^th century additions. Entering through this Privy Chamber, are 2 of the most beautiful Rooms in the Harem - the Twin Kiosk / Apartments of the Crown Prince, dating from around 1600, with a painted canvas Dome in the 1 Room & the fine Iznik Tile Panels above the Fireplace in the 2^nd Room, with stained glass Windows.

Next door is the Privy Chamber of Ahmet III & an adjoining Dining Room lined with wooden Panels decorated with images of Flowers & Fruits painted in lacquer, built in 1705.

Past these Rooms is the Courtyard of the Favourites. Over the edge of the Courtyard, there is a large empty Pool & overlooking it, are tiny windows of the many small dark Rooms comprising the Kafes (cage) where Brothers or Sons of the Sultan were imprisoned. Adjoining it, is the tiled Harem Mosque with its baroque Mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca).

From here, you can follow the passage known as the Golden Road & exit into the Third Court. Entering through the Gate of Felicity, this Court is Sultan’s private domain, staffed & guarded by White Eunuchs. There is an Audience Chamber, constructed in the 16^th century & refurbished in the 18^th century. Important Officials & foreign Ambassadors were brought to this little Kiosk to discuss Matters of State. The Sultan, seated on a huge Divan, inspected the Ambassadors' gifts & offerings as they were passed through the doorway on the left.

Right behind the Audience Chamber, is the pretty Library of Ahmet III, built in 1719. On the eastern edge of the Third Court, is the Dormitory of the Expeditionary Force, which will house the Palace's rich collection of imperial silver & gold threaded Robes, Kaftans & Uniforms.

On the other side of the Third Court, are the Sacred Safekeeping Rooms, sumptuously decorated with İznik Tiles, housing many relics of the Prophet. When the Sultans lived here, these Rooms were opened only once a year, for the Imperial Family to pay homage to the memory of the Prophet on the 15^th day of the holy month of Ramazan.

Next to these Rooms, is the Dormitory of the Privy Chamber, which houses an exhibit of Portraits of 36 Sultans. The highlight is a wonderful Painting of the Coronation Ceremony of Sultan Selim III (1789) by Konstantin Kapidagli.

Located on the eastern edge of the Third Court, Topkapı's Treasury features an incredible Collection of objects made from or decorated with Gold, Silver, Rubies, Emeralds, Jade, Pearls & Diamonds. The building itself was constructed during Mehmet the Conqueror's reign in 1460 & was used originally as Reception Rooms. It is currently closed for a major restoration & when it re-opens, it will display the jewel-encrusted Sword of Suleyman the Magnificent & the extraordinary Throne of Ahmed I (aka Arife Throne), which is inlaid with mother-of-pearl & was designed by Sedefhar Mehmet Aga, Architect of the Blue Mosque. You will also see the famous Topkapı Dagger, object of the criminal heist in Jules Dassin’s 1964 Film Topkapı. This Dagger features 3 enormous Emeralds on the Hilt & a Watch set into the Pommel. Also worth seeing would be the 86carat teardrop-shaped Kasikçi (Spoonmaker’s) Diamond, surrounded by dozens of smaller Stones, that was first worn by Mehmet IV at his accession to the Throne in 1648. There are 2 uncut Emeralds (each weighing about 8 pounds).

Fourth Court encompasses Pleasure Pavilions, including the Mecidiye Kiosk, built by Abdul Mecit (r 1839-61) based on 19^th century European models.